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Did you do anything special to remove the silicone residue from the frame. I have replaced the lens in my hatch and the silicone didn’t stick to the frame because of the residue from the original install.
What I used was Naptha VM&P for wiping / cleaning the residue off the frames and poly. This solvent does not harm the poly and does a good job of softening the silicone and tape residue. Beyond that, it’s a matter of repeating the process a few times and wiping it down really well to remove the silicone. Silicone is a bear to remove! It’s why I don’t really like it, but in some situations it’s really the only option… Hope this helps!
As usual another awesome video, You and Jamestown Distributors have been my constant companions during my recent restoration of a 20 ft sailboat
I removed my hatch and cleaned up the frame as you showed in the video. I pulled back the headliner and found some moisture and soft core. I have dug out all the affected area and I am letting it dry out for a while. Once it is dry what is the best way to fill in the void left by the wet plywood that I removed?
Can I build a temporary tray and pour epoxy into the void or do I drill some holes in the deck and fill from the topside?
Thanks
Hi Jim,
If you can, the best thing to do would be to replace the core with either new ply or balsa. How far into the cutout did you have to remove material?
Hi Andy,
I would say about 6″-8″.
Thanks
Jim
I’d try squaring off the core as best you can scraping with a chisel and cut a new piece of ply to fit in the void. Use thickened epoxy and be generous with it 😉 Have plastic covering everything below the work area in case any epoxy drips as you’re putting it in place.
Andy,
Do you also recommend using Naptha VM & P to clean the caulk & adhesive off the fiberglass or only on the frame?
If not, what would you recommend? Acetone? MEK?
Please advise,
Thanks In advance.
Nick.
Hi Nick!
Naptha would work just fine on the glass as well. Is the surface paint or gelcoat?
I believe gelcoat.
There shouldn’t be any issues using naptha on the gel to soften the old adhesive, but I’d still do the final wipe down with acetone before re-mounting the hardware 🙂 I think we’re going to have an early Spring this year! Are you working on projects now, or just getting things planned out for Spring?
I love your fiberglass n boat repair videos ! I have a passion for older powerboats and have 1971 233 Formula w a soft foredeck , a common problem w these balsa cored boats . Is there another way to stiffen up the deck besides popping the deck from the hull and flipping it upside down and chisling all the old coring out and recoring w new balsa and plywood ?
You could most likely address the core replacement from the top as I did in this video: https://youtu.be/JAtjHjJhBV0
You will have to refinish the surface of the deck for appearance, but overall it will be a lot less work!
Hope this helps!
Hey Andy, I am working on a fixed portlight, with Aluminum frames. Like the ones in the back ground of this video. The Aluminum frames are like a clam shell around the Plexi, fits in a U-channel I didn’t take it apart and clean it so have no idea how the previous owner had it sealed.. It came to me in pieces. What a dream right.. But any help is great coming from you… I’ve learned alot from your videos..Thanks
Very well done video, thank you. It would also be helpful if you would identify the adhesives and caulks you are using.
Trying to remember, but I think the plastic / glass is set in the frame with Dow Corning 795 and the frame is mounted to the deck using 3M 4000UV
Have you tried using a potato to smooth out silicone. The starch in the potato prevents the silicon sticking to it. The other advantage is that you can shape the potato to fit a radius if needs be, All best DH
Andy,
You are a gifted craftsman especially when working with caulk!! No matter how cautious my approach I always leave a trail and am contemplating using butyl tape for my hatch and port light restoration. Interested in your thoughts on butyl for this application and if favorable, perhaps you could suggest a particular manufacturer. Best regards…..Dave
Andy would you recommend using a wire brush wheel on a drill to clean the last of the remnants of the silicone from the frame?
Do you use any primer with the Dow 795. I have used the sikaflex 295 uv and 3 months down the road they all started leaking again
Andy,
what acrylic material you used and where did you obtain it?