Join the discussion 21 Comments

  • Hayden says:

    Did you do anything special to remove the silicone residue from the frame. I have replaced the lens in my hatch and the silicone didn’t stick to the frame because of the residue from the original install.

    • ~Andy says:

      What I used was Naptha VM&P for wiping / cleaning the residue off the frames and poly. This solvent does not harm the poly and does a good job of softening the silicone and tape residue. Beyond that, it’s a matter of repeating the process a few times and wiping it down really well to remove the silicone. Silicone is a bear to remove! It’s why I don’t really like it, but in some situations it’s really the only option… Hope this helps!

  • Marty Milkovits says:

    As usual another awesome video, You and Jamestown Distributors have been my constant companions during my recent restoration of a 20 ft sailboat

  • Jim says:

    I removed my hatch and cleaned up the frame as you showed in the video. I pulled back the headliner and found some moisture and soft core. I have dug out all the affected area and I am letting it dry out for a while. Once it is dry what is the best way to fill in the void left by the wet plywood that I removed?

    Can I build a temporary tray and pour epoxy into the void or do I drill some holes in the deck and fill from the topside?


    • ~Andy says:

      Hi Jim,

      If you can, the best thing to do would be to replace the core with either new ply or balsa. How far into the cutout did you have to remove material?

      • Jim says:

        Hi Andy,
        I would say about 6″-8″.


        • ~Andy says:

          I’d try squaring off the core as best you can scraping with a chisel and cut a new piece of ply to fit in the void. Use thickened epoxy and be generous with it 😉 Have plastic covering everything below the work area in case any epoxy drips as you’re putting it in place.

  • Nick says:

    Do you also recommend using Naptha VM & P to clean the caulk & adhesive off the fiberglass or only on the frame?
    If not, what would you recommend? Acetone? MEK?

    Please advise,
    Thanks In advance.

    • ~Andy says:

      Hi Nick!

      Naptha would work just fine on the glass as well. Is the surface paint or gelcoat?

      • Nick says:

        I believe gelcoat.

        • ~Andy says:

          There shouldn’t be any issues using naptha on the gel to soften the old adhesive, but I’d still do the final wipe down with acetone before re-mounting the hardware 🙂 I think we’re going to have an early Spring this year! Are you working on projects now, or just getting things planned out for Spring?

  • joseph ruo says:

    I love your fiberglass n boat repair videos ! I have a passion for older powerboats and have 1971 233 Formula w a soft foredeck , a common problem w these balsa cored boats . Is there another way to stiffen up the deck besides popping the deck from the hull and flipping it upside down and chisling all the old coring out and recoring w new balsa and plywood ?

  • LJ says:

    Hey Andy, I am working on a fixed portlight, with Aluminum frames. Like the ones in the back ground of this video. The Aluminum frames are like a clam shell around the Plexi, fits in a U-channel I didn’t take it apart and clean it so have no idea how the previous owner had it sealed.. It came to me in pieces. What a dream right.. But any help is great coming from you… I’ve learned alot from your videos..Thanks

  • Warren says:

    Very well done video, thank you. It would also be helpful if you would identify the adhesives and caulks you are using.

    • ~Andy says:

      Trying to remember, but I think the plastic / glass is set in the frame with Dow Corning 795 and the frame is mounted to the deck using 3M 4000UV

  • David S Higgs says:

    Have you tried using a potato to smooth out silicone. The starch in the potato prevents the silicon sticking to it. The other advantage is that you can shape the potato to fit a radius if needs be, All best DH

  • Dave says:


    You are a gifted craftsman especially when working with caulk!! No matter how cautious my approach I always leave a trail and am contemplating using butyl tape for my hatch and port light restoration. Interested in your thoughts on butyl for this application and if favorable, perhaps you could suggest a particular manufacturer. Best regards…..Dave

  • Ralph says:

    Andy would you recommend using a wire brush wheel on a drill to clean the last of the remnants of the silicone from the frame?

  • Mark says:

    Do you use any primer with the Dow 795. I have used the sikaflex 295 uv and 3 months down the road they all started leaking again

  • Al says:

    what acrylic material you used and where did you obtain it?

Leave a Reply