Join the discussion 15 Comments

  • Hayden says:
    October 10, 2015 at 5:15 pm

    Did you do anything special to remove the silicone residue from the frame. I have replaced the lens in my hatch and the silicone didn’t stick to the frame because of the residue from the original install.

    Reply
    • ~Andy says:
      October 10, 2015 at 8:06 pm

      What I used was Naptha VM&P for wiping / cleaning the residue off the frames and poly. This solvent does not harm the poly and does a good job of softening the silicone and tape residue. Beyond that, it’s a matter of repeating the process a few times and wiping it down really well to remove the silicone. Silicone is a bear to remove! It’s why I don’t really like it, but in some situations it’s really the only option… Hope this helps!

      Reply
  • Marty Milkovits says:
    October 10, 2015 at 6:32 pm

    As usual another awesome video, You and Jamestown Distributors have been my constant companions during my recent restoration of a 20 ft sailboat

    Reply
  • Jim says:
    October 19, 2015 at 7:11 pm

    I removed my hatch and cleaned up the frame as you showed in the video. I pulled back the headliner and found some moisture and soft core. I have dug out all the affected area and I am letting it dry out for a while. Once it is dry what is the best way to fill in the void left by the wet plywood that I removed?

    Can I build a temporary tray and pour epoxy into the void or do I drill some holes in the deck and fill from the topside?

    Thanks

    Reply
    • ~Andy says:
      October 30, 2015 at 11:00 pm

      Hi Jim,

      If you can, the best thing to do would be to replace the core with either new ply or balsa. How far into the cutout did you have to remove material?

      Reply
      • Jim says:
        November 3, 2015 at 3:29 pm

        Hi Andy,
        I would say about 6″-8″.

        Thanks
        Jim

        Reply
        • ~Andy says:
          December 2, 2015 at 4:09 pm

          I’d try squaring off the core as best you can scraping with a chisel and cut a new piece of ply to fit in the void. Use thickened epoxy and be generous with it 😉 Have plastic covering everything below the work area in case any epoxy drips as you’re putting it in place.

          Reply
  • Nick says:
    January 14, 2016 at 3:26 pm

    Andy,
    Do you also recommend using Naptha VM & P to clean the caulk & adhesive off the fiberglass or only on the frame?
    If not, what would you recommend? Acetone? MEK?

    Please advise,
    Thanks In advance.
    Nick.

    Reply
    • ~Andy says:
      January 14, 2016 at 5:25 pm

      Hi Nick!

      Naptha would work just fine on the glass as well. Is the surface paint or gelcoat?

      Reply
      • Nick says:
        January 14, 2016 at 6:57 pm

        I believe gelcoat.

        Reply
        • ~Andy says:
          February 2, 2016 at 7:35 pm

          There shouldn’t be any issues using naptha on the gel to soften the old adhesive, but I’d still do the final wipe down with acetone before re-mounting the hardware 🙂 I think we’re going to have an early Spring this year! Are you working on projects now, or just getting things planned out for Spring?

          Reply
  • joseph ruo says:
    March 23, 2016 at 7:31 pm

    I love your fiberglass n boat repair videos ! I have a passion for older powerboats and have 1971 233 Formula w a soft foredeck , a common problem w these balsa cored boats . Is there another way to stiffen up the deck besides popping the deck from the hull and flipping it upside down and chisling all the old coring out and recoring w new balsa and plywood ?

    Reply
  • Warren says:
    October 25, 2016 at 4:13 pm

    Very well done video, thank you. It would also be helpful if you would identify the adhesives and caulks you are using.

    Reply
    • ~Andy says:
      November 5, 2016 at 4:33 pm

      Trying to remember, but I think the plastic / glass is set in the frame with Dow Corning 795 and the frame is mounted to the deck using 3M 4000UV

      Reply

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