This is the last of a 5 part series which outlines every step from repairing different types of fiberglass damage, thru the priming, painting and applying Awlgrip nonskid for a newly refinished deck! If you haven’t seen the previous episodes CHECK THEM OUT! They are posted on the home page of this site!
Particulars about the different coats of paint in this video:
~ When rolling out the smooth coats of paint with the flattening agent, I used the slow reducer (T0031) to allow for more work time before the surface skinned over. These coats were mixed in equal amounts (paint, converter, reducer and flattening agent (1:1:1:1) and were rolled and tipped. Using less flattening agent will product a finish with more gloss. For example cutting the amount of flattening agent in the mix by half will result in a satin finish, however for a flooring project I felt this was still a little too glossy. After deciding to go with a true FLAT finish I used the proportions outlined above and was very happy with the results!
~ When rolling over the nonskid particles (GripTex) for the final coat, I used the same proportions of paint, reducer, converter and flattening agent BUT used the FAST evaporating thinner (T0002)! The reason being that this coat was going to be a much thicker film and I wanted the solvents to gas out of the paint as quickly as possible to avoid what is called Solvent Pop (AKA blisters in the paint). This is a result of the paint skinning over before the solvents have had a chance to evaporate out of the paint; essentially getting trapped. Over time the solvents will continue to try and escape, and to an extent they will succeed but the result will be blistering 🙁
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Materials, Tools, & Suppliers
- Awlcat #3 Brush Converter
- Awlgrip Flattening Agent
- Awlgrip GripTex
- Awlgrip Paint
- AwlPrep Plus Wax
- Chip Brushes
- Mohair Roller
- Stir Sticks & Mixing Cups
- T0002 Reducer
- T0031 Reducer